The Tradition collection from Breguet is about history and commemoration of Breguet’s talent. This collection already has five different models, the hand-wound, the Automatic Retrograde Second, the GMT, the Chronograph, and the Tourbillon Fusee-and-chain. This year, Breguet added a new model, The Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 that features a calendar indication.
You can see calendar as a simple complication, but we are talking about Breguet now. Their calendar complications are a bit more complex than adding a date window at 3 o’clock on an automatic ETA Movement.
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This model, available with either 18k white gold or in an 18k rose gold case with the diameter of 40mm to retain the classic proportions of the collection. The caseband is fluted with a thin polished bezel that offers an uncluttered view of the movement. The case also comprises screw bars at the tips and welded lugs to give this watch that antique yet technical look.
Like any other model in Tradition collection, the face of this watch exposed all the critical elements of the movement. The hours and minutes markers are featured on an off-centred dial that is made of solid gold with a hand-guilloche clou-de-Paris pattern on it. The silvered dial features classic Breguet hands in blued steel with “moon” tip to pointing the Roman numerals on a chapter ring.
This watch movement design is inspired by old souscription watches. We can see it by a central barrel flanked by the gear train on the left side and the regulating organ on the right side. There’s also stepped triangular bridges on the upper side of the movement. Mostly, the surfaces are finished with a hammered decoration and polished edges.
The main spotlight of Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is the date complication that is located between 3 and 9 o’clock. Retrograde date is the best option for this movement, due to its symmetry and architectural concept. You can correct the date with a screwed push-button at 10 o’clock.
The caseback reveals the winding mass that rotates classically on 360 degrees that is made of solid gold with a concave hand-polished surface. Even though the calibre 505Q has an old school design, this movement comes with modern technology such as a reverse in-line lever escapement and anti magnetic balance spring. Beating at a 3Hz frequency, this watch has up to 50 hours of power reserve.