The Type XX from Breguet is one of the most iconic French-related watches and one of the most popular models of the modern Breguet era. Created in the 1950s in response to a military requirement, Breguet brought it back to the collection after a few years with the introduction of the Breguet Type 20 Chronograph 2057 and Type XX Chronograph 2067. Those new models draw inspiration from the iconic first-generation models while being greatly modernized.
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TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057 (Military Version)
This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name was written Type XX in Roman numerals. Its black dial has been modernized while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity.
The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o’clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, as was the case of the models delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, and 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chronograph, the one at 4 o’clock is for the “flyback” function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer.
TYPE XX CHRONOGRAPHE 2067 (Civilian Version)
This second timepiece, with its adventurous look, is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is the same black as the 2057, it differs in several respects.
First of all, its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the totalizer is sized differently to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands, and the triangle on the bezel are coated with an ivory-coloured luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, and 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle.
ARRIVAL OF THE NEW CALIBRE 728
Combining robustness and innovation, these new models are powered by the new self-winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version and Calibre 7281 for the military version. The difference between them is only the two or three-counter displays. A column-wheel and a vertical clutch are elements of this automated, integrated chronograph with retour en vol (flyback) function that enable a smooth start and reset of the chronograph without an initial jerk.
These movements incorporate Swatch Group innovations such as a balance spring, an escape wheel, and silicon pallet-lever horns for anti-magnetic function. When fully wound, the power reserve is ready for up to 60 hours.