From March 27th until April 1st 2023, all watch lovers’ eyes were on Watches & Wonders 2023, which took place in Geneva. This is an annual event where the biggest names in the watch industry unveil their newest models. From Zenith to IWC, check out some of the models that should be on your radar.
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Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Ceramic
Capturing the spirit of the aviation pioneers who set their sights far beyond the horizon, the new Pilot Big Date Flyback is a call to chase your dreams, no matter how far or how high. It features a host of new functions that have been specifically conceived for the Pilot collection. The oversized date display in the Pilot Big Date Flyback features a next-gen patented compliant mechanism that advances and stabilizes both of the big date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds.
Originally conceived for aviators who wore thick sheepskin gloves, the flyback function allows the chronograph function to be reset to zero and restarted with a single push of a button, simplifying the Pilot’s operations and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without stopping.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Following a flyback chronograph movement, a high-frequency calibre and a flying tourbillon, Alpine Eagle is extending its range with an ultra-thin model featuring a small seconds indication. Measuring just 3.30 mm thick, the L.U.C 96.40-L movement is just one of the feats achieved by the watchmaking artisans of Chopard Manufacture.
Its advanced features enable the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified accuracy, while guaranteeing 65 hours of power reserve thanks to Chopard Twin technology.
The Alpine Eagle 41 XPS with its 41 mm-diameter case and integrated bracelet is entirely crafted in the Maison’s workshops from Lucent Steel™: an exclusive, ultra-resistant, and remarkably shiny alloy made from 80% recycled materials. Its optimal proportions and textured “Monte Rosa Pink” dial endow this model with undeniable elegance and distinction; while its finishes, reflecting the highest Haute Horlogerie standards, have earned it recognition by the coveted Poinçon de Genève.
Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde
Defying conventions and undeterred by superstition, Hublot reveals the character of its latest model. The 44 mm MP-13 is encased entirely in brushed titanium and for the first time brings together two complications, the tourbillon and the retrograde display, in one. But take note, as these are not just any old complications.
The tourbillon completes a full rotation every minute on one axis and every 30 seconds on the other. Having two speeds within the same mechanism creates a view that is both hypnotic and technical.
To further enhance its magic, Hublot has crafted a tourbillon with two refined attributes: it is skeletonized and suspended. This architectural design grants the tourbillon a weightlessness that more traditional versions lack. It does away with the upper bridge, and each component is pared back unsparingly to allow light to pass through unobstructed. To amplify the visual effect, the space surrounding the 6 o’clock tourbillon has been opened up and is protected on both sides by anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Like all models in the MP series, the MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis will only be produced in a very limited edition of only 50 numbered pieces. Designed entirely in titanium with a black rubber strap, the watch has a full satin finish and contains 374 components.
La Panthère de Cartier
The La Panthère model, which features the signature panther of the Maison, completes the Watches & Wonders collection from Cartier. The watch’s striking, sculptural, and graphic face features a panther shutting its teeth. Its fierce stare is brought to life by incorporated tsavorites, and the body of the piece is dressed in yellow gold, rose gold, or white gold with an allover diamond pavé.
The head is effortlessly connected to an integrated bracelet. These Panthére ladies’ wristwatches are made to fit snugly around the wrists for a comfortable fit and have no obvious hinges.
Piaget High Jewelry Aura Watch
In 1989, Piaget launched the ultimate High Jewellery watch, the Aura; a diamond bracelet that happened to tell the time, with a fully integrated gem-smothered case and bracelet, the diamonds in near-invisible settings enabling light and luminosity to ripple across the dial and around the wrist, giving the watch its name.
A contemporary classic, today’s Aura is the embodiment of Piaget’s twin passions, powered by their ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement while demonstrating the Maison’s supremacy in jewellery and gem-setting. Here, custom-cut baguette diamonds flow into a dégradé composition of meticulously calibrated sapphires, shaded from icy-light to midnight blue, enclosing a diamond-set dial in a radiant sunburst pattern. A rare specimen that represents more than 260 hours of impeccable craftsmanship.
Panerai Radiomir Calendario Annuale Platinumtech™ Experience – PAM01432
Panerai’s new compilation, the Annual Calendar, appeals to connoisseurs who seek aesthetics and authenticity. Developed specifically for the Radiomir collection, this is Panerai’s first ever annual calendar compilation.
Displayed on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock, every month change is instantaneous thanks to a cam in the movement. With clear and immediate readability in mind, Panerai puts together intricate time-telling elements, and the dial clearly displays all information needed.
Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph
Roger Dubuis introduced the Monovortex™ Split-Seconds Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2023. This ground-breaking creation watch not only controls the forces of gravity, but also highlights the emphatic ingenuity of Roger Dubuis by reinventing both the tourbillon and the oscillating mass, each associated with one of the most complex traditional fine watchmaking complications: the Split-Seconds Chronograph.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon
La Grande Maison presents the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon in pink gold, inspired by its first tourbillon wristwatch, the Reverso Tourbillon, introduced thirty years ago. A glorious expression of the Calibre 847 introduced in 2018, it shines a spotlight on the Manufacturer’s avowed expertise in tourbillons. Also incorporating the Duoface concept, its two dials present two different aesthetics, with a second time zone and a day-night indicator on the reverse dial.
The Manufacturer’s expertise in tourbillons has grown steadily from that point, with its development of multi-axis tourbillons incorporating a variety of shaped balance springs. On the wrist, with the front dial visible, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon has an elegant yet highly distinctive presence. These understated details, together with the subtle glow of the silver sunray-brushed front dial, allow the tourbillon to take centre stage.
The eye is drawn to its whirling motion, then travels all the way through its intricate structure to the back of the watch case. As the case turns over, it reveals the cradle, where a visually dramatic sunray pattern centres on a mirror-polished disc; the disc is precisely aligned with the tourbillon to reflect light back through the delicate mechanism. The second time zone is indicated by golden hands and indexes on a black sunray-brushed dial, and above the dial, the night and day indicator features an exquisite starry night sky.
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 Black
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 reflects the bold aesthetic codes of Genta’s iconic Ingenieur design while meeting the highest standards regarding ergonomics, finishing, and technology. This model features a case, bezel, and integrated H-link bracelet with a butterfly folding clasp made of stainless steel, all of which are elaborately finished with polished and satin-finished surfaces.
The ergonomics of the case and bracelet have been carefully reworked and improved down to the smallest detail. The 40-millimetre case and the newly engineered middle-link attachment ensure excellent wearability, even on a slender wrist. The characteristic round bezel is screwed onto the casing ring with five polygonal screws.
The black dial features the distinctive “Grid” structure, which consists of small lines offset from each other by 90 degrees. Rhodium-plated hands and appliques with luminescence ensure easy legibility. Working inside the case is the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre, whose pawl winding system builds up a power reserve of 120 hours. In keeping with the technical heritage of the Ingenieur, a soft-iron inner case shields the movement from magnetic fields. The 10-bar water-resistant case and the newly designed crown protection make the Ingenieur Automatic 40 a fully versatile luxury sports watch for the 21st century.
Those newest models will be available soon at The Time Place boutique.