The Portofino has been IWC’s most classic model since its introduction in the mid-1980s. It has to be seen as the brand’s dress watch, even more than the Portugieser, and recalls pocket watches from the past.
With the 39mm Chronograph model as the flagship watch, IWC has opted to offer this watch what one would expect from such a collection: conventional complications. It all started with a perpetual calendar, which is now joined by a pointer date and the exquisite Portofino Full Calendar.
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The new Portofino Complete Calendar (Ref. 3590) is the first timepiece from IWC to utilize the newly built complete calendar module. In addition to current perpetual and annual calendar movements, it is designed with a very classical display and conventional subdials. This new calendar model, housed in the revamped Portofino, is all about elegance.
It has two subdials at 12 and 6 o’clock, one with the weekday and moon indication while the other displays the date and month. Each display is powered by its own gear train and may be adjusted independently of the others using the crown or two correction buttons placed on the left side of the case.
It has been subtly updated, although it still has the slim and soft case with short, straight lugs. The case measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.8 mm in height when fully polished. Both variants are available in stainless steel or 18k pink gold and feature dials that are otherwise similar.
The two models are silver-plated and have gold-plated leaf hands, as well as the collection’s new and extended markers and Roman numerals. The sole distinction is that the gold watch has solid gold markings, whereas the steel watch has gold plating. Overall, this is an attractive and understated timepiece.
The calibre 32150 is visible within the case via the sapphire caseback. This series of movements, previously seen in Pilot’s watches, is an extension of the 2892 architecture, developed by the group’s movement factory (ValFleurier) for IWC, with several upgrades. It has a 72-hour power reserve, a pawl winding mechanism, a silicon escape wheel, and a pallet fork.