The Tradition collection from Breguet is about the history and commemoration of Breguet’s talent. This calendar collection already has five different models, the hand-wound, the Automatic Retrograde Second, the GMT, the Chronograph, and the Tourbillon Fusee-and-chain. This year, Breguet added a new model, The Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597, that features a calendar indication.
You can see the calendar as a simple complication, but we are talking about Breguet now. Their calendar complications are more complex than adding a date window at 3 o’clock on an automatic ETA Movement.
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This model is available with either 18k white gold, or an 18k rose gold case with a diameter of 40mm to retain the classic proportions of the collection. The baseband is fluted with a thin polished bezel that offers an uncluttered view of the movement. The case also comprises screw bars at the tips and welded lugs to watch that antique yet technical look.
Like any other model in the Tradition collection, the face of this watch exposed all the critical elements of the movement. The hours and minutes markers are featured on an off-centered dial made of solid gold with a hand-guilloche Clou-de-Paris pattern. The silvered dial features classic Breguet hands in blued steel with a “moon” tip pointing to the Roman numerals on a chapter ring.
Old subscription watches inspire this watch movement design. We can see it by a central barrel flanked by the gear train on the left side and the regulating organ on the right side. There are also stepped triangular bridges on the upper side of the movement. Mostly, the surfaces are finished with a hammered decoration and polished edges.
The main spotlight of Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 is the date complication that is located between 3 and 9 o’clock. The retrograde date is the best option for this movement due to its symmetry and architectural concept. You can correct the date with a screwed push-button at 10 o’clock.
The case back reveals the winding mass that rotates classically on 360 degrees made of solid gold with a concave hand-polished surface. Even though the caliber 505Q has an old-school design, this movement comes with modern technology such as a reverse in-line lever escapement and anti-magnetic balance spring. Beating at a 3Hz frequency, this watch has up to 50 hours of power reserve.